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Low Voltage, Security, Network and AV Services in Texas

EVOTECH IT LLC installs security cameras, access control, network cabling, WiFi, TV mounting, commercial AV, audio, intercoms, business phones, smart home systems, and related technology for homes and businesses.

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Networking & Wi-Fi · Katy · Houston · Since 2004

Low Voltage Installation in Katy & Houston, TX

Complete low-voltage installation for homes and businesses across Katy, Houston, Sugar Land, Richmond, Fulshear and Cypress — data and Wi-Fi cabling, security cameras, TV and audio, access control, intercom and alarm wiring, all pulled to code and landed on one central panel by a single licensed contractor. Licensed, insured, 20+ years, rated 5.0 stars. One trade, one plan, one number to call, so every signal-carrying system your building runs on is designed to work together instead of fighting each other in the wall.

Licensed & insured20+ years5.0★ ratedFree on-site estimateOne contractor for all

One contractor for every low-voltage system in your building

Almost everything in a modern building that carries a signal rather than serious electrical power runs on low-voltage wiring — your internet and Wi-Fi, the security cameras, the TVs and speakers, the door readers, the thermostat, the doorbell and the alarm. EVOTECH IT LLC designs, pulls and terminates all of it as one coordinated system for homes and businesses across the Katy and Houston area, so it is planned together, lands in one place, and has one contractor accountable for the whole thing.

We are a licensed and insured low-voltage contractor with more than 20 years of hands-on experience and a 5.0-star rating. Low voltage is its own trade — separate from the electrician who wires your outlets and lights — with its own cable types, its own section of the code, and its own craft in fishing walls and terminating connectors cleanly. Done right, none of these systems is ever the problem. Done piecemeal by whoever was cheapest that month, you get a closet full of unlabeled wire, cameras sharing a network with the guest Wi-Fi, and nobody who will take responsibility when something stops working.

Short answer: low-voltage installation is the wiring and equipment for every signal-carrying system in a building — data, Wi-Fi, cameras, phones, TV and audio, access control, intercom and alarm — generally running at 50 volts or less. Bundling it under one low-voltage contractor, pulled during construction where possible and home-run back to a single structured panel or rack, is what keeps it clean, upgradeable and cheaper than hiring a different specialist for each box.

Below is a straight, no-jargon guide to what low voltage actually covers, how the wiring works, when to pre-wire versus retrofit, and exactly what a professional installation includes — so you can make a confident decision whether you hire us or not.

What ‘low voltage’ actually means (and why it is a separate trade)

The name is literal. Low voltage refers to the signal and control wiring that runs at low electrical pressure — generally 50 volts or less — as opposed to the 120 and 240-volt line-voltage wiring that powers your outlets, lights and appliances. In the National Electrical Code these are the power-limited circuits described in Article 725, split into Class 2 and Class 3. Because they are limited in both voltage and available power, they carry little shock or fire risk, which is exactly why they can be run without conduit through your walls and why they are a different discipline from your electrician’s work.

Low voltage vs. line voltage

This distinction matters the moment you start hiring. An electrician is the right and required trade for anything on the 120/240-volt power side — panels, breakers, outlets, hardwired appliances. A low-voltage contractor handles the signal side. The two coordinate on a job but are genuinely different skill sets: pulling and terminating a fiber strand, a Cat6A run or a coax connector, aiming a camera, or programming a door controller has almost nothing in common with wiring a breaker panel.

Low voltage (Class 2/3)Line voltage
Typical voltage50V or less (12V, 24V, 48V PoE)120V / 240V
CarriesData, video, audio, signaling, controlElectrical power
TradeLow-voltage contractorLicensed electrician
Conduit required?Usually no — power-limitedOften yes
ExamplesCameras, Wi-Fi, phones, speakers, readersOutlets, lights, HVAC, ranges

Why the difference is good news for you

Because low-voltage cable is power-limited, it is faster, cleaner and less invasive to install than line-voltage wiring — no conduit to bend, smaller openings to patch, and it can share the same wall cavities as long as it is kept properly separated from the power lines. That is what makes it practical to add a whole suite of systems to an existing home without tearing it apart, and inexpensive to over-provision when the walls are still open.

What low voltage covers: the full menu of systems

The reason one contractor for all of it makes sense is that these systems are more alike than they look — they all ride low-voltage cable back to a central point. Here is the range of what falls under a low-voltage installation, and where each one connects to the rest of your building.

Data and Wi-Fi

The backbone everything else increasingly depends on: Cat6, Cat6A and fiber cabling to every outlet, plus ceiling-mounted wireless access points that blanket the property in signal. This is the foundation, covered in depth on our network cabling and Wi-Fi installation pages.

Security cameras and surveillance

IP and PoE cameras, a network video recorder, and remote viewing on your phone — one cable per camera carrying both power and video. See security camera installation.

Access control and entry

Card and fob readers, keypads, electric strikes and maglocks, request-to-exit sensors and door controllers that decide who opens which door and log every event. See access control installation.

Intercom and video entry

Door stations and room units so you can see and speak to whoever is at the gate or the front door. See intercom installation.

TV, audio and AV

Mounted TVs, whole-home and outdoor speakers, home theater and distributed audio, all pre-wired to a clean head-end. See whole-home audio and home theater installation.

Voice and paging

VoIP business phones and overhead paging that ride the same cabling and switches as your data. See business phone systems and paging and PA.

Smart home and control

Lighting control, motorized shades, smart thermostats and the hubs that tie them together. See smart home installation.

Alarm and life safety

Intrusion sensors — door and window contacts, motion and glass-break detectors — are low-voltage wiring we run and terminate. Fire and life-safety alarm is a distinct, separately-licensed specialty with its own code; where a project needs it we coordinate with a licensed fire-alarm specialist rather than pretend it is the same scope. Being honest about that boundary is part of doing the job right.

The wiring behind it: low-voltage cable types

Part of why low voltage is its own trade is that each system wants a different cable, and matching the right cable to each run is most of doing the job well. You do not need to memorize this, but it helps to see the range a single low-voltage installation actually pulls.

CableCarriesTypical use
Cat6 / Cat6AData plus PoE powerComputers, Wi-Fi APs, cameras, phones, readers
Fiber opticHigh-speed data as lightBackbones, long runs, between buildings
RG6 coaxRF videoAntenna, satellite, cable TV
Speaker wire (14–16 AWG)Amplified audioIn-ceiling, in-wall and outdoor speakers
Security / alarm (22 AWG, 2–4 cond.)Sensor signalingDoor contacts, motion, glass-break sensors
Access-control compositePower plus data plus lockCard readers, electric strikes, maglocks
Thermostat (18 AWG, multi-cond.)HVAC controlSmart and standard thermostats

PoE: one cable, power and signal together

The biggest shift in the trade is Power over Ethernet. A single Cat6 or Cat6A cable now carries both data and up to roughly 60 to 100 watts of power, so a camera, wireless access point, VoIP phone or door reader needs no separate power supply at the device — just one low-voltage cable home-run back to a switch. It is cleaner to install, easier to reboot remotely, and a big reason a modern low-voltage backbone is mostly structured data cable.

Fire-rated jackets

The cable jacket has to match the space it runs through. Plenum-rated cable is required in air-handling spaces, riser-rated for vertical runs between floors, and general-purpose for everything else, with outdoor and direct-burial runs getting their own rated jackets. Using the correct rating is fire code, not a preference, and we spec it per run.

Why one low-voltage contractor for all of it keeps it clean

You can hire a camera company, a separate network person, an AV installer and an alarm outfit — and plenty of people end up doing exactly that, one system at a time. The result is almost always the same: overlapping cable runs, four different labeling schemes, a network closet nobody controls, and four companies who each blame the others when something does not work. Bundling the whole low-voltage scope under one contractor solves problems that are otherwise structural.

One backbone, one head-end

When one contractor plans everything, the cameras, Wi-Fi, phones, door readers and control systems all share one designed cabling backbone and land on one central panel or rack — instead of four mini-systems stapled into the same walls without a plan. That means fewer holes, less cable, and a closet you can actually read.

The systems are designed to work together

These systems increasingly talk to each other: cameras and access control share events, the alarm ties into the cameras, phones and Wi-Fi ride the same switches, and smart-home control touches all of it. When one contractor designs the network underneath, voice traffic gets prioritized, cameras and guest Wi-Fi get segmented onto their own VLANs, and the pieces cooperate. When four contractors each bring their own box, they collide.

No finger-pointing, and it costs less

One contractor means one point of accountability — when anything on the low-voltage side needs attention, there is a single number to call and no argument about whose wire it is. It is also genuinely cheaper: one mobilization, one set of wall openings, shared cable paths and one rack instead of four separate trips, four markups and four partial jobs. For businesses this is the difference between a network you manage and one that manages you; for homes it is the difference between a clean, documented system and a mystery in the attic.

New-construction pre-wire: do it while the walls are open

The single best-value decision in any build or major renovation is to pre-wire the low voltage while the framing is still open. Cable that costs a little to pull now costs many times more — and a lot of drywall patching — to add once the walls are closed. If you are building anywhere in the Katy or Houston area, getting a low-voltage plan into the rough-in stage pays for itself many times over.

Where pre-wire fits in the schedule

Low-voltage rough-in happens after the framing is up and the electrician has done the line-voltage rough-in, and before insulation and drywall. We come in, run every cable back to the future panel location, mount low-voltage brackets at each outlet, and leave everything labeled and stubbed for trim-out after the walls are finished. Timing it correctly with the other trades is part of the job — too early and the framing is not ready, too late and you are fishing finished walls.

What to pre-wire

  • Data drops at every office, TV, desk and Wi-Fi access-point location — always more than you think you need today.
  • Camera runs to the eaves, corners and entries you will want to watch.
  • Speaker wire to ceilings, patios and any room you may want audio in later.
  • TV locations with data, power coordination and a conduit sleeve behind each screen.
  • Door and gate wiring for the doorbell and for future access control and intercom.
  • A central structured panel location with power and ventilation.

Over-provision and sleeve for the future

Because pulling cable in open framing is cheap, this is the moment to run spare drops and — critically — to leave conduit sleeves or smurf tube from the panel to the attic and to key walls, so the next cable a decade from now goes in without opening anything. Building for the future pull is a habit, not an upsell, and it is the thing homeowners thank us for years later.

Retrofit and old-work: adding low voltage to a finished building

Most buildings are already built, and adding low voltage to a finished home or office is completely doable — most of what we do is retrofit. It is simply a different craft from pre-wire: instead of open framing, we work with what the walls give us.

How we get cable into finished walls

We fish new cable through existing wall cavities, attics and crawlspaces, cut clean old-work openings, and route around insulation, fire-blocks, HVAC and plumbing. An experienced installer leaves your walls looking untouched; an inexperienced one leaves patchwork and guesswork. Two-story runs and the slab-on-grade construction common here take more planning, and that is exactly where 20 years of doing it in Houston-area buildings shows.

Where retrofit gets creative

Not every wall has a clear path, so retrofit is a craft of finding the route: dropping from an accessible attic, coming up from a crawlspace, using existing chases, stacking closets, or occasionally running a clean surface raceway where fishing genuinely is not possible. We walk the building first and tell you honestly which locations are easy, which are hard, and where a wireless link or a raceway is the smarter call than tearing open a wall.

The hybrid mindset

Even on a retrofit we think about the next pull — leaving a pull string or a sleeve where we can, and landing everything on a proper panel so the system you add today is something you can grow tomorrow. The goal is never a one-off wire to solve one problem; it is a small, clean piece of a system you can keep building on.

The head-end: where every low-voltage cable lands

The thing that turns a pile of cables into a system is where they all come home to. Every professional low-voltage installation is home-run — each cable goes back to one central location rather than daisy-chaining device to device — and that central location is the head-end.

Homes: the structured media panel

In a house this is a structured-media enclosure or a small wall rack, usually in a closet, utility room or garage. The internet service, the router, a network switch and the distribution for cameras, audio and control all live here. Every data outlet, camera, speaker zone and door in the house terminates at this one panel, so the whole home is one manageable, upgradeable system instead of a router on the floor trailing cable across the living room.

Businesses: the MDF and IDF racks

Commercial sites scale the same idea into a main distribution frame — the primary equipment room, or MDF — and, in larger buildings, intermediate distribution frames (IDFs) closer to clusters of outlets, tied together by a fiber backbone. This hierarchy keeps every cable run inside the 100-meter limit no matter how big the building is. The deeper detail lives on our commercial IT solutions and network cabling pages.

Power, protection and labels

The head-end is also where we protect the system: critical gear on a UPS so a power blip does not drop your cameras or phones, surge protection on the runs that leave the building, ventilation so equipment survives the Texas heat, and — the cheapest and most valuable thing on the whole job — a label on every cable and port, matched end to end. A labeled panel is the difference between a five-minute change and a two-hour hunt.

Our low-voltage installation process, step by step

  1. Free on-site estimate. We walk the property, talk through every system you want now and might want later — data, Wi-Fi, cameras, audio, access, control — map the cable paths and panel location, and give you a clear written scope and itemized quote. No pressure and no invented numbers.
  2. Design the whole low-voltage plan. We lay out every outlet, camera, speaker and device, choose the right cable for each run, size the panel or rack, and coordinate the plan with your builder or electrician so the trades do not collide.
  3. Rough-in or fish the cable. On new construction we pull before drywall; on a retrofit we fish clean runs through walls and attics. Every cable is a dedicated home run back to the panel, kept properly separated from line-voltage wiring.
  4. Trim-out and terminate. After the walls are finished we install the jacks, cameras, speakers, readers and keypads, mount the rack or panel, and terminate every cable to standard on quality connectors.
  5. Configure, test and tune. We set up the network, cameras, audio and control, test every run, aim and focus cameras, balance audio, and confirm each system works the way you expect.
  6. Label, document and train. Every cable and port is labeled and recorded, and we walk you through the whole system. We are local, so if anything needs adjusting later we are a call away at (832) 359-2425.

What a professional EVOTECH low-voltage installation includes

A real low-voltage installation is a complete, tested, documented system — not a bundle of cable stapled to a stud. Every EVOTECH project includes:

  • On-site survey and system design. Every outlet, device and cable path planned before we quote, across all the systems you want, so nothing is a surprise.
  • The right cable, correctly rated. Solid-copper data cable, genuine fiber, real speaker, coax and control cable — in the correct plenum, riser or outdoor jacket for where each run lives.
  • Clean, concealed, home-run cabling. Every run fished and dressed, kept separated from power, respecting bend radius, and home-run back to one panel — not surface-stapled or daisy-chained.
  • A central panel or rack. A tidy, ventilated, expandable structured-media enclosure or equipment rack where everything lands and can be managed.
  • Professional trim-out. Jacks, cameras, speakers, readers, keypads and control gear mounted solidly and terminated to standard on quality connectors.
  • Configuration and testing. Network, cameras, audio and control set up, every run tested, and each system tuned and verified.
  • Labeling and documentation. A consistent label on every cable and outlet, matched end to end, so the system stays readable for its whole life.

Residential vs. commercial low-voltage work

Homes and businesses use the same low-voltage technology to solve different problems, and designing them the same way is a common and costly mistake.

Homes

The priorities are usually strong Wi-Fi in every room and the backyard, hardwired data at offices and TVs, cameras at the doors and driveway, a video doorbell, whole-home or patio audio, and a clean central panel that ties it all together. Discretion and cable that respects the home’s finish matter, and most homes are beautifully served by a well-planned structured panel feeding data, cameras, audio and control. New construction is the golden opportunity to pre-wire all of it at once.

Businesses

Commercial low voltage adds scale and stakes: dozens or hundreds of data drops, managed switches carved into VLANs, business Wi-Fi built for device density, cameras and access control that must hold up as evidence and control who enters, VoIP phones and paging, and longer retention and documentation for liability and compliance. Runs are often plenum-rated, work happens around operating hours, and the system has to be built to grow — adding staff should be a patch-cord change, not a construction project. The equipment names overlap with the consumer aisle; the design discipline does not. See our commercial IT solutions page for the business side in depth.

Six low-voltage mistakes that cause expensive problems

Almost every disappointing low-voltage system fails for one of these reasons. Knowing them helps you judge any installer — including us.

  1. Running low voltage next to power. Data, audio and signal cable stapled alongside electrical lines picks up interference and hum. We keep proper separation and cross power at right angles where they must meet — it is code and it is quality.
  2. Cheap or wrong-rated cable. Copper-clad-aluminum data cable, undersized speaker wire, or the wrong fire-jacket for the space underperforms, fails early and can violate code. We use solid copper and the correct rating for every run.
  3. No central panel. Daisy-chaining devices instead of home-running every cable to one panel gives you a system nobody can service. We home-run everything to a single, labeled head-end.
  4. No conduit or spare for the future. Closing the walls with no sleeve and no spare drops means the next upgrade is a demolition project. We over-provision and sleeve while the walls are open.
  5. Four contractors, four islands. Separate camera, network, AV and alarm outfits produce overlapping wire and nobody accountable. One contractor designs it as one system.
  6. No labeling, no testing, no documentation. An unlabeled, untested install works on day one and becomes an unmaintainable mess the first time anything changes. We test, label and document as standard.

What affects the cost of a low-voltage installation

Every building is different, so we give real, itemized quotes after a free on-site look rather than a fake per-drop number that ignores your walls and your systems. The honest drivers of cost are:

  • How many systems and outlets — data, cameras, audio, access and control each add drops, and the total count is the biggest single factor.
  • New construction vs. retrofit — open framing is quick; fishing finished two-story or slab construction takes more labor.
  • Cable types and distances — fiber, Cat6A, long or difficult runs and outdoor-rated cable cost more than short standard runs.
  • Devices and equipment — the cameras, access hardware, speakers, switches and panel you choose.
  • Panel or rack size — how much the head-end has to hold and how much room to grow you want.
  • Extras — UPS and surge protection, certification, and full documentation.

Our estimate is itemized so you can see exactly what each part costs and phase the work to your budget — often we pull all the cabling at once and add devices in stages. The on-site estimate fee, when one applies, is credited toward your project. To get real numbers for your property, request a free on-site estimate or call (832) 359-2425.

Frequently asked questions

What does ‘low voltage’ actually mean?
Low voltage refers to signal and control wiring that runs at low electrical pressure — generally 50 volts or less — instead of the 120 or 240-volt power wiring that feeds your outlets and lights. In the electrical code these are the power-limited Class 2 and Class 3 circuits. Because they carry little shock or fire risk, they can run through your walls without conduit, which is why low voltage is a faster, cleaner and less invasive trade than line-voltage electrical work.
What is the difference between a low-voltage contractor and an electrician?
An electrician handles line voltage — the 120/240-volt power side: panels, breakers, outlets, lights and hardwired appliances. A low-voltage contractor handles the signal side: data and Wi-Fi cabling, cameras, phones, TV and audio, access control, intercom and alarm wiring. The two coordinate on a job but are different skill sets and, in most places, different licenses. You want the low-voltage specialist for anything that carries a signal rather than serious power.
What systems count as low voltage?
Data and Wi-Fi cabling, security cameras, VoIP phones, TV and whole-home audio, access control and door entry, intercoms, smart-home lighting and control, thermostats, and intrusion-alarm sensors are all low voltage. Fire and life-safety alarm is a separately-licensed specialty we coordinate rather than claim. The common thread is that every one of these rides low-voltage cable back to a central panel, which is exactly why one contractor can plan them together.
Is it cheaper to have one contractor do all the low-voltage work?
Usually, yes. One contractor means one mobilization, one set of wall openings, shared cable paths and a single central panel instead of four separate trips, four markups and four partial systems. Beyond cost, it means one design where the systems actually work together and one number to call when something needs attention — instead of four companies blaming each other. Bundling the low-voltage scope is one of the most reliable ways to save money and headaches.
When should low-voltage wiring be installed in new construction?
During the rough-in stage — after the framing is up and the electrician has finished the line-voltage rough-in, and before insulation and drywall go in. That is when we can run cable anywhere cleanly and place outlets exactly where they are needed, for a fraction of what it costs after the walls are closed. Getting a low-voltage plan into the schedule at rough-in is the single best-value decision in any build.
Can you add low-voltage wiring to a house that is already finished?
Yes — most of what we do is retrofit. We fish new cable through existing walls, attics and crawlspaces, cut clean old-work openings and route around insulation, fire-blocks and HVAC, leaving your walls looking untouched. Two-story and slab-on-grade homes take more planning, which is exactly where 20 years of doing it in the Houston area shows. Where a wall genuinely has no path, we will tell you honestly and suggest a wireless link or a clean raceway instead.
What should I have pre-wired in a new home?
More than you think you need today, because adding it later costs far more. We typically pre-wire data drops at every office, TV and Wi-Fi location, camera runs to the eaves and entries, speaker wire to ceilings and patios, wiring for the doorbell, gate and future access control, and a central structured panel with power and ventilation. Because pulling cable in open framing is cheap, this is also the moment to run spare drops and leave conduit sleeves for the future.
Do I need conduit for low-voltage cable?
Usually not. Because low-voltage cable is power-limited, it can run through wall cavities without conduit in most residential and commercial spaces — one of the reasons it is cheaper and less invasive than line-voltage wiring. That said, we do run conduit or leave sleeve where it adds value: through certain commercial and outdoor spaces, where code requires it, and — the smart move — as an empty future pathway from the panel to the attic so tomorrow’s upgrade goes in without opening a wall.
Can low-voltage cable run next to electrical wiring?
It can share the same wall cavities, but it has to be kept properly separated from line-voltage wiring — the code calls for it, and it prevents the electrical interference that causes network errors and audio hum. We keep separation along parallel runs and cross power lines at right angles where they must meet. Cable stapled tight against a power line is a classic cause of a system that is mysteriously flaky later.
What is a structured media panel and do I need one?
It is the central enclosure — usually in a closet, utility room or garage — where the internet service, router, network switch and the distribution for cameras, audio and control all live, and where every low-voltage cable in the home comes home to. It is what turns a pile of separate wires into one manageable, upgradeable system. For any home with more than a couple of low-voltage systems, a proper panel is the single thing that keeps it clean and serviceable.
Does low-voltage work need a permit?
It depends on the jurisdiction and the system. Much low-voltage cabling is exempt because it is power-limited, but some systems and some cities do require a low-voltage or alarm permit, and commercial work often has its own requirements. As a licensed contractor we know the local rules across Katy, Houston and the surrounding area and handle the permitting that applies, so the work is done correctly and to code.
Can one cable really power a camera or access point?
Yes — that is Power over Ethernet (PoE). A single Cat6 or Cat6A cable carries both the data and up to roughly 60 to 100 watts of power, so a camera, wireless access point, VoIP phone or door reader needs no separate power supply at the device. It is cleaner to install, lets us reboot a device remotely from the switch, and is a big reason a modern low-voltage backbone is mostly structured data cable.
Do you install alarm and fire systems too?
We run and terminate the low-voltage wiring for intrusion-alarm sensors — door and window contacts, motion and glass-break detectors — as part of a coordinated system. Fire and life-safety alarm is a distinct, separately-licensed specialty with its own code, so where a project needs it we coordinate with a licensed fire-alarm specialist rather than present it as the same scope. We would rather be honest about that boundary than overpromise.
How much does a low-voltage installation cost?
It depends on how many systems and outlets you want, whether it is new construction or a retrofit, the cable types and run distances, the devices and equipment you choose, and the size of the central panel or rack. We give a real, itemized quote after a free on-site look instead of a fake per-drop price, and any on-site estimate fee is credited toward your project. Call (832) 359-2425 to schedule.
Are you licensed and insured, and what areas do you serve?
Yes — EVOTECH IT LLC is a licensed and insured low-voltage contractor with 20+ years of experience and a 5.0-star rating. We install low-voltage systems in Katy, Houston, Sugar Land, Richmond, Fulshear, Cypress and the surrounding communities. Call (832) 359-2425 to confirm your address and schedule a free on-site estimate.

Get a free on-site low-voltage estimate

Tell us every system you want now and might want later — data, Wi-Fi, cameras, audio, access, control. We’ll survey the property, design one clean low-voltage plan, and give you a clear, itemized quote — no pressure and no invented numbers.

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